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Contents of the box when I opened it. Moldings are very clean, almost
no flash. Nice decals, and a
little fret with PE headlight surrounds. Also included are metal axles,
good chrome parts, instruction sheet and a small tube of glue.
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Kit
"wire" wheels were awful! I used MG Models turned aluminum
wheels with photo etched "wires" that look much better. I used
kit tires (they needed a little trimming from inside) and knock-offs
though.
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It is
a very good "base" kit, which lends itself to many possible modifications
and improvements. Immediately when I saw this kit I knew it won't be built box stock! I started with cutting all openings covered
with plastic "mesh". Also I removed all molding lines. You could
see couple of pinholes on this picture...
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Since
kit provides no suspension detail to speak of and kit wheels were not "see-through", I decided to improve this situation. I bought some
Model Car Garage metal brake disks, and installed brake hoses. Since my
new wheels are "see-through" it was a great addition to the
model's appearance.
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To look
more like sheet metal, plastic had to be thinned down from the inside, since
body is almost 1.5 mm (a little less that 1/16 inch) thick!!! I had no motor tool
at the time, and it was quite a task!
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It is a
curbside kit, though exhausts provided as separate parts. I painted them
with Testors Burnt Metal metalizer, and replaced plastic tips with aluminum
tubing. I drilled them to make them thinner, painted
Testors Exhaust inside, and polished to high shine.
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As you
can see from this picture, I also opened grille and brake cooling ducts.
Several pinholes were filled with putty, together with imprinted Ferrari emblem, which
was sanded down.
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This is
the picture of completed chassis with installed exhausts, brake disks, and
new wheels.
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Checking
accuracy of the body shape with numerous pictures and books, I corrected
all the body flaws with filler. Here you could see that rear spoiler had a
huge sink mark.
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Seats
were painted with Tamiya Light Blue and carefully flocked with Detail
Master flocking. They look very nice!
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Since
it is a generic body, many details (door handles, hood flags, catches,
etc) were molded on the body. For the car I was building, it had
improperly positioned door handles, so I just shaved them along with all
flags and catches, since they were too thick and gave somewhat toy
appearance.
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This is
completed Detail Master racing harness kit. It took some time to put this one
together! It has so many tiny P/E details, and it is
very hard to work with two tweezers instead your hands! But the results
look awesome! One harness was assembled locked, and another open.
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I saved
door handles though, so I could apply them later to a proper place. All
flags and catches were scratchbuilt from aluminum cans. On this picture
you can see that I removed a door handle, and filled the area with putty.
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This is
a picture of an interior with installed seats and harnesses. Interior tub
was painted Testors Titanium metalizer and buffed. Some parts of the
harnesses were glued to the seats with white glue to prevent flying away
when the model is handled.
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For
some reason, engine air ducts were molded in black plastic, and they did
not fit at all. It took some work and putty to position them correctly.
It also took some primer to cover that black!!
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Another
shot of the interior. Here you can see a shifter made from a ball pin (kit
shifter was too thick and looked terrible), PE pedals, and some gauges
already in place.
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Since
part of the inside of the body will be visible after model
completion, I cleaned it with 400 grit sandpaper, and filled and removed
all flaws.
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This is
yet another shot of the interior with installed dash. Dash was painted
black, decaled, then detail painted. Steering wheel was painted brown, and
then a thin stripe of BMF was used to simulate aluminum wheel rim. Decal
comes from a Revell 512TR kit, cause horn button decal provided in the kit
was poorly registered.
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Here
you can see primed and sealed body ready for paint. It took almost a
week to clean it up!
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This is
the picture of the body painted with 3 coats of Tamiya Chrome Yellow,
polished with 3M compound and waxed with "The Treatment" wax.
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Inside
part for the hood. It also had some molded in mesh seen in this picture.
It was also molded in black plastic.
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Another
shot of finished body. Later I painted body aluminum from the inside, as
early Ferraris were never painted inside, and racing examples, like this
one, were made from aluminum.
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Here is
the picture of the same part with removed plastic "mesh".
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Here is
the picture of the body with installed mesh, grille, windshield, and
partly painted aluminum. You can also see some BMF pieces from windshield
trim.
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Here is
the same part after removal of the "lip" at the narrow end (it
didn't fit), painting, and installing new mesh. Here I used Tamiya nylon mesh
included with 360 Modena kit, since it has the same pattern as a real thing.
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Body
with installed rear mesh. Again, I used Tamiya nylon mesh from 360 Modena
kit here.
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This is
the kit glass. It is also very thick piece, so I had to sand it to make it
thinner, then rub it with 3M rubbing compound and wax with
"The Treatment" wax to make it clear again.
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On this
picture you could clearly see diamond-shaped mesh installed in the grille,
and partly decaled body. One headlight surround is installed, and it took
me almost 3 hours to bend it to the shape. The problem is that it just too
big! It doesn't look right, but I had no choice.
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After
all that I cut side windows from it, cause real car had sliding Plexiglas
windows, and I decided to make them from clear plastic.
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Completely decaled body. Some PE details, like wiper, hood and trunk
flag-catches were added later. I also scratchbuilt clear hood
vents from clear plastic - kit parts were too thick and completely out
of scale. Number lights and door handles were added. Also, on this picture
you can clearly see sliding windows made from clear plastic.
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